Category Archives: Forget-Me-Not-Nations

Bigfoot in Léon, Nicaragua

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Locally-owned Bigfoot Hostel, tel (505) 917-8832, bigfootnicaragua@gmail.com, http://www.bigfootnicaragua.com, just northeast of Parque Central, 50 meters south of Banco Procredit, is a colonial home transformed into a backpacker haven. It is within meters of an ice cream parlor (a perfect antidote … Continue reading

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Museum of the Salvadoran Revolution

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Having arrived in Perquín on Sunday, I had to wait until Tuesday to visit the museum of the Salvadoran revolution, which remained closed every Monday. I trudged 100m up the steep hill, for the second time, to a basic wooden … Continue reading

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No love lost, or gained

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A fresh blast of cool mountain air greeted me when I stepped off the bus at 1117 meters above sea level. The long and steep ride up the mountain to Perquín had left me tired and, in need of sustenance. … Continue reading

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A Regretful Education

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The road wound on for what seemed like an eternity and as each passing pick-up sped by it kicked up a new layer of dust to coat me with. I threw my thumb up a few times, but no one … Continue reading

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Mal gente

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I was walking down the road among groups of happy schoolchildren when a lone little boy sporting his khaki-brown and white school uniform caught up to me and started to talk. He was four years old and maybe three feet … Continue reading

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San Miguel – El Mozote

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I soon came upon a Chinese-owned motel-restaurant where a hamburger and a cold beer seemed more appealing than another plate of Central American-Chinese Chicken fried rice. I wondered which countries in the world didn’t have Chinese restaurants? They seemed ubiquitous … Continue reading

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Pan Am running man

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As our bus chugged out of the bowl shape of a silver city, I looked back down into it, noting it was the best view of Tegucigalpa I’d had yet. En route to the El Salvadoran border I met a … Continue reading

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The Football War

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I moseyed through a city park where military officers mixed nonchalantly with a mother, her child played with a red ball around monuments twin two-wheeled machine-gunners. Honduras had no recent civil war to speak of like its neighbours. But for … Continue reading

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Welcome home?

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The bus heaved in to the terminal in Comayaguela, on the west side of the Rio Choluteca, opposite Tegucigalpa at about 10 p.m. The town this side of the river is considered “dirtier and poorer” by the oft-reliable lonely planet … Continue reading

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Te-goose me indirectly

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The bus from Estelí led to the border crossing at Las Manos, where I stepped into Honduras in mid-afternoon after a brief stop at its immigration window. The border official told me the last bus to the capital city (Tegucigalpa), … Continue reading

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Peace of the future

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Estelí, about two hours north of Léon, another Sandinista stronghold, drew many International sympathizers (in the late 1970s and early 1980s) opposed to the Somoza regime and its American-backed Counter-revolutionaries. To aid in teaching volunteers Spanish quickly, many make-shift language … Continue reading

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Planet Cerro Negro

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León, the capital of the 1978-1979 Nicaraguan revolution, is tough and beautiful like its grand Cathedral littered with bullet-hole reminders of the not so distant civil war. A short walk along Avenida Central leads to La Universidad Autonoma de Nicaragua, … Continue reading

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Granada belle

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Taking photos from the bell tower of the cathedral, I was surprised by a young French girl also seeking the best shot of the city, but was more than likely looking for someone to hang out with. We spent the … Continue reading

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Isla de Ometepe, oink and run

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    With my side-swinging satchel and futbol cinco shoes on, I set out with my guide Douglas to climb 1394 meter high Volcán Maderas in the thickening mist. Douglas was a Sandinista supporter, who spoke about weapons used during … Continue reading

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Gentleman Sandinista

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LÉON, Nicaragua — El Caballero swigs from his one-litre bottle of Victoria cerveza and smiles warmly, eyes drifting off to a time when all of his dreams seemed possible. A thick red candle on the table makes his face glow … Continue reading

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Fear’s Bravado

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Like mosquitoes slowly draining strength from a weary body, the necessary details of travel: where to go when, for how much and how long, sometimes cling overly preoccupying a weary mind. But, just as pressing as these concerns can seem, … Continue reading

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